Types of Silks

Mulberry: The bulk of the commercial silk produced in the world comes from this variety and often silk generally refers to mulberry silk. Mulberry silk comes from the silkworm, Bombyx mori L. which solely feeds on the leaves of mulberry plant. These silkworms are completely domesticated and reared indoors. In India, the major mulberry silk producing states are Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, West Bengal, Tamil Nadu and Jammu & Kashmir which together accounts for 92 % of country's total mulberry raw silk production.

Tasar: Tasar (Tussah) is copperish colour, coarse silk mainly used for furnishings and interiors. It is less lustrous than mulberry silk, but has its own feel and appeal. Tasar silk is generated by the silkworm, Antheraea mylitta which mainly thrive on the food plants Asan and Arjun. The rearings are conducted in nature on the trees in the open. In India, tasar silk is mainly produced in the states of Jharkhand, Chattisgarh and Orissa, besides Maharashtra, West Bengal and Andhra Pradesh. Tasar culture is the main stay for many a tribal community in India.

Oak Tasar: It is a finer variety of tasar generated by the silkworm, Antheraea proyeli J. in India which feed on natural food plants of oak, found in abundance in the sub-Himalayan belt of India covering the states of Manipur, Himachal Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Assam, Meghalaya and Jammu & Kashmir. China is the major producer of oak tasar in the world and this comes from another silkworm which is known as Antheraea pernyi.

Eri: Also known as Endi or Errandi, Eri is a multivoltine silk spun from open-ended cocoons, unlike other varieties of silk. Eri silk is the product of the domesticated silkworm, Philosamia ricini that feeds mainly on castor leaves. Ericulture is a household activity practiced mainly for protein rich pupae, a delicacy for the tribal. Resultantly, the eri cocoons are open-mouthed and are spun. The silk is used indigenously for preparation of chaddars (wraps) for own use by these tribals. In India, this culture is practiced mainly in the north-eastern states and Assam. It is also found in Bihar, West Bengal and Orissa.

Muga: This golden yellow colour silk is prerogative of India and the pride of Assam state. It is obtained from semi-domesticated multivoltine silkworm, Antheraea assamensis. These silkworms feed on the aromatic leaves of Som and Soalu plants and are reared on trees similar to that of tasar. Muga culture is specific to the state of Assam and an integral part of the tradition and culture of that state. The muga silk, an high value product is used in products like sarees, mekhalas, chaddars, etc.

Except mulberry, other varieties of silks are generally termed as non-mulberry silks. India has the unique distinction of producing all these commercial varieties of silk.

Chemically speaking, silk is made of proteins secreted in the fluid state by a caterpillar, popularly known as 'silkworm'. These silkworms feed on the selected food plants and spin cocoons as a 'protective shell' to perpetuate the life. Silkworm has four stages in its life cycle viz., egg, caterpillar, pupa and moth. Man interferes this life cycle at the cocoon stage to obtain the silk, a continuous filament of commercial importance, used in weaving of the dream fabric.

TYE & DYE step by step guide with dyeing procedure.

Tye&dye: Tie & Die is one of the most widely accepted and one ot the very Traditional textile inIndia. Tie & dye is a method of dyeing clothing or fabricOriginally popularized by the members of the hippie subculture clothes are dyed either by submerging them or by squirting dye solution on to them.the part where the fabric is tied into folds prevents the dye from entering theInner parts of the same creating a pattern this known as the resist techniqueTie and dye is mostly done on cottons, chiffons and silk.

Cotton is chosen for the tie and dye since cotton remains the most Miraculous fiber, under the sum even after 8000year, no other fiber comes close To duplicating all of the desirable characteristics combined in cotton the fiber Of thousand faces and almost as many uses, cotton is noted for its versatility appearance, performance above all its natural comfort.

Dyes used were natural dyes until the end of 19th century when the synthetic dyes took over natural dyes generally require a mordant, which are Metallic salt aluminum, iron, chromium, copper and others for ensuring the reasonable fitness of color to sun light and washing natural dyes are considered Eco-friendly.

Napthol class of dyes used is fascinating tow different types of chemicals are mixed in the fiber the diaza salt and the napthol the specific combination of this short of dye is that contrasting colors may be placed adjacent to each other of fabric without color bleeding from one to the

Here are steps for tie and dye with Napthol dyes

STEP1:The materialis scoured and all impurites are removed

Method for removing impurities:Scouring fabric in washing machine: Time: One washer & dryer cycle.

Use one tablespoon Synthropol and (optional) ½ teaspoon of soda ash per 1-2 yards of fabric.
Open up the fabric fully to make sure the soap can completely penetrate it. This soap removes any sizing or finishes in the fabric that will inhibit the dyes. Hot water (140 degrees F) apparently works best, though cold water is fine too.

STEP2: Tying the fabric-here are some basic steps for tying furture u can explore and experiment and can try diffrent ways of tying to creat differnt effects.

Tying:Tie marbles, buttons or stones into the fabric at random, binding tightly with string or elastic bands.

Stripes:Fold the material into concertina pleats to form a thin strip and bind tightly at intervals with string or elastic bands.

Marbling:Crush the material and bind tightly with string, gradually gathering the material into a tight ball.

circle:Pinch the centre of your fabric and pull into a cone shape. Use string or rubber bands to tightly tie the fabric at intervals, starting at the point

STEP 3: The wetting of the material is done

Wetting: turkey red oil monopole brilliant oil etc. are used as wetting agents to obtain a smooth paste of the dyestuff without formation of any lumps which if allowed to remain get deposited, wetting agent are used to facilitate wetting of the dyestuff and its subsequent dissolution ,wetting agent is not normally required.

STEP 4: Dyint procedure by Naphthal dyes

Napthol dyes are applied by means of 2 baths. The first bath consists of the NAPTHO SLOUTION

Which impregnates the cloth with the DIAZO SOLUTION in the second bath?

Weight of the material: 200grms.

NAPTHOL BATH:

YELLOW COLOR-1ST COLOR

a) 20GRMS OF napthol-napthol ASG

b) 10-15ML of turkey red oil

c) 20grms of caustic soda

DIAZO BATH

a) Dye stuff-yellow GC

b) hydrochloric acid-20ml

c) Sodium acetate-20grams

d) sodium nitrate-10grams

Napthol bath

MAROON COLOR-2ND COLOR

a) 20grams of naptholASG

b) 10-15ML of turkey red oil

c) 20grms of caustic soda

DIAZO BATH

a) Dye stuff-RED B BASE 20Agrams

b) hydrochloric acid-20ml

c) Sodium acetate-20grams

d) sodium nitrate-10grams

STEP 5:NAPTHOL BATH procedure :

a) Paste 20gms napthol with trukey red oil

b) add1/4-1/2liter water (boiling) to the paste and mix well

c) Add 20grms fo caustic soda flakes to the same and mix well

d) Add about 15-20grams water to a broad tub and introduce the prepared napthol and mix well.

e) Place the fabric into the napthol bath; agitate gently to ensure even penetration of napthol.

f) Repeat the same for 25to 30min.

STEP 6:DIAZO BATH

a) Yellow dye stuff of 20grams is pasted with sufficient water.

b) HCL of 20ml is added to the same and mixed well.

c) 20grams of sodium acetate is added to the mixture and mixed well.

d) After adding 1/2-1liter of water to the same 10grams of sodium nitrate is added well

e) 15-20liters of the water is filled into the tub, introducing the diazo misture into the tub and mix well

f) The cloth is placed in the tub and agitated well for penetration of dye; continue the same for 25-30min.

STEP 7:Repeat the same with napthol ASG and the diazo bath for maroon B base to obtain second color after resisting the first part of fabric(after dyeing in yellow color tie the area where u don want maroon means u want it to be remain the yellow then repeat the steps.)

STEP 8: Remove the fabric from dyebath then leav it for drying in shad.

Some of my samples